Hometown Passion on Tap: Inside Varitage Brew Works

Hometown Passion on Tap: Inside Varitage Brew Works

Mike Ham

It’s a crisp autumn afternoon as I make my way to Varitage Brew Works, nestled on Washington Street in the heart of Bloomfield, NJ. Stepping inside, I’m greeted by the warm, industrial-chic atmosphere, accented by soccer memorabilia and the comforting hum of conversation. The energy is palpable, and it’s clear that this place is more than just a business—it’s a community hub. Today, I’m here to sit down with Mark Costa, the founder and head brewer, to hear the story of how Varitage came to life.

Mark’s journey is a testament to the power of blending passion and purpose. Growing up in Nutley, soccer was more than a sport; it was a way of life. From high school games to playing college soccer at Caldwell University and eventually coaching in Belleville, soccer was always in his blood. But behind the scenes, another love was brewing—beer. During his time as a touring musician, Mark discovered the diverse world of craft beer. “I’d go from city to city and see that there was so much more out there than the big-name beers I was used to,” he says. Inspired, he started brewing his own beer at home, perfecting recipes on a stovetop that later transitioned into a full garage setup.

Family gatherings became his testing ground. He’d show up with his latest creations and brace for feedback. “My family’s honest,” he laughs. “If it wasn’t good, they would’ve told me.” But the real validation came when he started winning medals in homebrew competitions across the country. That’s when he knew this hobby had potential.

Turning a passion into a business is rarely straightforward, and Mark’s path was full of twists. His big break came by chance when Bloomfield councilwoman Jenny Mundell heard about his homebrewing during a neighborhood gathering. From there, momentum built quickly. The town supported his vision, clearing zoning hurdles and changing ordinances to make Varitage possible. But the build-out process was anything but smooth. From landlord changes and eight months of delays to unexpected construction issues, Mark faced challenges that would deter most. “There were days when it felt like this was never going to happen,” he admits.

But he kept going, fueled by his desire to create something special in his hometown. The name “Varitage” itself is a nod to his Italian-Portuguese roots and upbringing in North Jersey. “It’s a combination of ‘variety’ and ‘heritage,’” he explains. “It’s about celebrating where I come from and the different stories that have shaped me.” This isn’t just a brewery; it’s a tribute to the sacrifices his parents made as immigrants and the community that supported him.

The support of his wife, Katie, was also a game-changer. Mark recalls a turning point when he was ready to leave his corporate advertising job but hesitant about the uncertainty. “One day on the beach, Katie just said, ‘Quit. Go work for a brewery.’ And that was all I needed to hear.” Shortly after, he joined Jersey Girl Brewing to gain commercial experience before embarking on his own venture.

Opening Varitage marked a milestone not just for Mark but for Bloomfield. “When we first opened, I was so focused on just making it through the day,” he says. “I’d been working on this for so long, it felt surreal to finally see people here, enjoying the space.” The community responded, with visitors from upstate New York, Cape May, and even Pennsylvania flocking to this unique soccer-centric brewery. It wasn’t long before Varitage became known for its creative brews and neighborhood collaborations.

Signature beers like the American IPA “Locks on Planes” and the Czech-style lager “Varitage Premium Pale Lager” have become staples, but it’s the special releases that really capture the spirit of the place. One standout is the peppermint bark porter made with Holsten’s chocolate—a nod to a homebrew Mark once crafted that became a holiday hit. “We couldn’t keep up with the demand last year,” he says. This year, he plans to release it earlier and in larger quantities, ready for the enthusiastic community that eagerly awaits its return.

Community is at the heart of everything Mark does. Varitage has become a focal point for local events, from Oktoberfest celebrations to soccer watch parties complete with outdoor seating and projector screenings. “It’s about more than just beer; it’s about creating an experience,” he shares. Collaborations with nearby businesses, like food vendors and local artisans, help turn each event into a celebration of what makes Bloomfield unique.

Looking ahead, Mark has plans to expand Varitage’s distribution, albeit carefully. “It’s not about going big; it’s about spreading the word and building awareness,” he says. This strategy aligns with his desire to use distribution as a tool for inviting people to experience Varitage in person. He’s also focused on leveraging Bloomfield’s evolving downtown landscape, complete with plans for outdoor beer gardens and community markets.

Mark’s story isn’t just about launching a brewery; it’s about staying true to his roots while pushing forward. Varitage Brew Works is proof that with the right mix of passion, resilience, and community support, you can create something that resonates far beyond your original vision. As I leave, I feel the warmth of the space linger—proof that Mark has succeeded in making Varitage more than a business. It’s a place where stories are shared, memories are made, and the community gathers, one pint at a time.