New York Chefs Are Reviving The Classic Diner, Could New Jersey Be Next?

New York Chefs Are Reviving The Classic Diner, Could New Jersey Be Next?

Peter Candia

Just recently, the legendary Kellogg’s Diner in Williamsburg, Brooklyn—which has been closed since 2023—reopened with a new concept and a team of talented chefs at the helm. The restaurant now still operates as a diner, albeit with a litany of items you might not expect to find.

Chef Jackie Carnesi—who left her job as the Executive Chef at Brooklyn’s Nura to take over the diner—brings a cuisine near to her heart, and perhaps unexpected for Kellogg’s: Tex-Mex. In a Food 52 article published shortly after it was announced that she would reimagine the century-old diner, Nicole Davis states: Chef Jackie Carnesi Brings Her South Texas Spirit to an Iconic Brooklyn Diner.

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This takes the form of stuffed enchiladas, refried bean-topped nachos, and fluorescent-red, gelee-topped dessert bars playfully adorned with a pretzel. The unexpected. Juxtaposed is, well, the expected. The syrupy French toast, the fried chicken platters and, of course, the burgers.

The biggest test for Kellogg’s was always going to be if it still felt like a diner. And though it’s only open for dinner at the moment, and the menu might be smaller, they have nailed the authentic diner feel. It’s a portal to a different time—or maybe even an alternate timeline where Tex-Mex cuisine reigns supreme in New York City. 

This modern revitalization of the classic diner—which pays close mind as to not offend the Americana spirit—doesn’t stop at Kellogg’s. Three Decker Diner and Montague Diner, both in Brooklyn, reimagined staple diners in the city at the hands of talented chefs coming out of the pandemic.

And if one thing is true about the big-brother-little-brother relationship of New York and New Jersey, it’s that when NYC paves the way, the Garden State often follows close behind. 

We know all too well, that in NJ, the beloved diner is merely a shell of what it was prior to 2020. The 24-hour variety is effectively dead with less than 20 remaining, and the quality of food at many of our favorites has even taken a dip, too. 

There was a time not too long ago where, no matter the hour, you could rely on your favorite diner to come through. Banana pancakes with a side of Taylor Ham at 3 a.m.? Why not? A bacon cheeseburger with disco fries for breakfast? That just makes sense. Institutions such as Tops Diner have done a great job adapting to the times with their revamped menu that doesn’t dare forget about the classics, but in the diner capital of the world, you’d think there would be more who followed suit. 

In Little Falls, a vintage cable car diner sits on the corner of Paterson Ave and Main Street. I grew up just a few minutes down the road from this landmark diner, and for nearly the entirety of my lifetime, it’s been closed. I used to walk by and peek inside at the still-set tables, the coffee mugs, and bar stools—I’d imagine a time decades prior where working class people flooded in to chow down on hamburgers and tuna melts. 

To my delight, I caught wind last year of a revival effort for the quaint diner. You can follow along that journey, which is led by local journalist Dana Schaeffer, here. My dream of one day seeing that slice of American food history open again might just come true. 

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This same sentiment doesn’t stop at Little Falls. All over the state, there are vintage diners—some still open and family-run, others since closed waiting to be replaced by a chain restaurant. 

My plea is this: The NJ diner deserves the same TLC seen in Brooklyn’s revolutionary diner movement. The chef-driven, history-appreciating, revitalization of one of the great styles of restaurant. Diners—especially in New Jersey—are much more than just a place to go after a night out (which is less feasible now than ever) or a place to grab breakfast on a rainy Sunday. Instead, diners are the focal point of a community. They are the eateries that our fast-paced lives revolve around. 

Support your local diner. Order onion rings with breakfast. Get that coffee refill. As diners slowly become less dominant in New Jersey, we can only hope for a day that they are brought back to their glory. We have the chefs, the infrastructure and the patrons—maybe it’s only a matter of time. 

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Peter Candia is the Food + Drink Editor at New Jersey Digest. A graduate of The Culinary Institute of America, Peter found a passion for writing midway through school and never looked back. He is a former line cook, server and bartender at top-rated restaurants in the tri-state area. In addition to food, Peter enjoys politics, music, sports and anything New Jersey.