Cheesesteaks are one of the great sandwiches of the known universe. I think it’s their simple makeup of ribeye, cheese, onions and fresh bread that makes the sandwich so alluring to me. People will argue about which cheese to use and whether to chop or shave the beef, but one thing stays certain: With such humble makings, the room for failure is large— too little beef, and the sandwich is simply underwhelming. Not enough cheese? You’re left with pockets of dry, miserable steak. And please, for the love of God, leave the sweet peppers out of the equation. 

Unless you live under a rock, Philadelphia is known as the place to sample the World’s best cheesesteaks, and for good reason. Angelo’s Pizzeria, John’s Roast Pork, Dallessandro’s—the list goes on. But what if I told you that the city’s best cheesesteak wasn’t actually in Philadelphia,  or even Pennsylvania? Instead, the best cheesesteak lives on the east side of The Delaware River, 20 miles into The Garden State.

That’s right, Philly’s best cheesesteak is in New Jersey.

This wouldn’t be the first time someone made such a claim. The late Anthony Bourdain claimed Donkey’s Place in Camden, NJ, was Philly’s best cheesesteak in the New Jersey episode of “Parts Unknown.” Donkey’s place is famous for its rather unorthodox version of the Philly classic—which is served on a poppy seed kaiser roll rather than hoagie bread. It’s definitely earned its spot among the greatest, but for me, there are better. 

I had heard rumors that a New Jersey spot rivaled Philly’s best, so I knew I had to try it. And, my God, the rumors were true. To find the best cheesesteak, you have to head to a quaint pizzeria in South Jersey. Philly’s best cheesesteak can be found at Lillo’s Tomato Pies in Hainesport, NJ. 

Lilllo’s Tomato Pies opened in late 2021 with one mission: To serve Hainesport the foods popularized in Trenton during the 20th century. Trenton Tomato Pies, cheesesteaks and more are just some of what Lillo’s is bringing to the literal table. Their namesake—the tomato pie—is understandably outrageous, comfortably earning a spot at the table with Trenton’s best tomato pies. They even offer a true Trentonian classic: The mustard pie, which lands you a tomato pie with a thin smear of spicy brown mustard on the dough. Weird? Sure. Delicious? Absolutely. 

As you can probably guess, I don’t go to Lillo’s for pizza. I go to Lillo’s for cheesesteaks, and if it were up to me, it’d be the only one I eat for the rest of my life. Lillo’s cheesesteak is what I consider to be the platonic ideal of the sandwich. 16 ounces (yes, a pound) of shaved ribeye, Cooper Sharp White American cheese, onions and a fresh seeded roll from Liscio’s Bakery, which provides bread for a plethora of Philly’s best spots. 

Now, it’s true that just because the ingredients are premium, that doesn’t mean it always translates to a superb final product. So, what makes a great cheesesteak?

The Beef

It starts with the beef. Ribeye is king and in my opinion, shaved ribeye is far superior to chopped or sliced. But even the best ribeye will taste off if not seasoned properly. This isn’t to say that the seasoning needs to be complex, a simple dusting of salt and pepper will suffice, but it is to say that it’s an absolute necessity. Too often, I have a cheesesteak that is improperly seasoned, rendering the entire sandwich flavorless and boring. 

The Cheese

Next is the cheese. People will argue about whether wiz, American, or sometimes Provolone should be used. If you ask me? It’s white American cheese all day. Cooper Sharp specifically has come to be the benchmark cheese for many hoagie shops. The product is a blend of aged cheeses into one melty block. This gives you a well-flavored cheese that is paramount for melting. 

The Toppings

Next, the toppings. I usually don’t want anything more than onions on my steak sandwich and I think most Philly natives would agree. Hot peppers are fine sometimes, maybe (just maybe) even mushrooms here and there, but if you give me a cheesesteak with sweet peppers on it, it’s getting sent back. No exceptions.

The Bread

Lastly, and arguably most importantly, the bread. Bread is the vessel that delivers the sandwich to you. Without good bread, the best steak and cheese in the world would be wasted. A good cheesesteak roll should be crusty on the outside and soft on the inside with a slight chew to it. The bread’s flavor should be well-developed but not overpowering, like sourdough or something similar. Sesame seeds aren’t a necessity, though I thoroughly enjoy them for my hoagies. A product like the bread from Liscio’s Bakery is utterly perfect to deliver all of these qualities. 

Distribution

Another wildly important factor in a good cheesesteak is the distribution of ingredients. A pet peeve of mine is when you get a cheesesteak that simply has cheese melted on top. This is a sin. A great cheesesteak requires an even mixing of the parts. That means the cheese is melted and mixed with each crevice of the beef and onions. The bread encases the entirety. Every single bite should be consistent with the last and the next. There should never be a bite lacking ingredients—each one should have bread, meat, cheese and onions. Not to be dramatic, but this is utterly crucial when it comes to steaks. 

This is the mental checklist I run through when trying a new cheesesteak. If a spot meets two out of the four, I’ll probably return. If a spot meets all four, I consider it the best of the best. Before now, John’s Roast Pork in South Philly was my gold standard for cheesesteaks. Every single one I had, I compared to John’s. Until I tried Lillo’s. 

Lillo’s Tomato Pies delivers what I consider to be the greatest cheesesteak in the world. I would be remiss to sit here and act like I’ve had them all, but Lillo’s steak hoagie is indeed better than any I’ve had in my life—it is Philly’s best cheesesteak.

It is loaded with beef, well-seasoned and served on incredible bread. The Cooper Sharp offers a flavor that many cheesesteaks lack. Something unique to Lillo’s is a garlic spread that adds an additional layer to the sandwich. It’s subtle, but defined. A peek into the Lillo’s dining room and you’ll see a cheesesteak on nearly every table. That’s because it is objectively great. It’s impossible to deny the profoundness of this sandwich. 

Cheesesteaks are, without a doubt, my favorite sandwich in the world. Their simple yet hard-to-master makeup makes for what I consider to be a nearly perfect food. When it comes to cheesesteaks, there are many great ones around—specifically in New Jersey and Philadelphia. However, in my opinion, not one tops that of Lillo’s Tomato Pies in Hainesport, NJ. Try it for yourself and you’ll agree that Philly’s best cheesesteak is in New Jersey. 

Photos by @pete.candia