When I last ate at Beneci’s—a waterfront restaurant that overlooks the NYC skyline from Weehawken, NJ—General Manager Lori Crowley told me that Beneci’s ultimate goal was to make every guest feel at home. Whether that be through three courses of food with bottles of wine to boot, or just a quick sandwich and beer for lunch, the idea is central to the operation.
They succeeded in doing so during my first meal there back in February. You can read that review here.
But, today I’m back for an improved menu, marking what is a seemingly constant push forward for the NJ Italian restaurant. Highlighted by playful new bites and a noticed uptick in presentation, Beneci’s enters a new era, and Weehawken is lucky to be a part of it.
It starts with appetizers, of course. Beneci’s boasts a full list of pizzas, but if you don’t think you can do a whole pie, one of their flatbreads is an excellent alternative. Two words: Beneci’s Bruschetta. Diced tomato, shallot, garlic and basil dress a brick-oven-baked flatbread that’s topped with melted mozzarella. A swig of olive oil and lemon for good measure, too.
The contrast of temperatures is alluring. Steamy and airy pizza dough, warm mozzarella, and a cold bruschetta topping to send it home. These are the types of appetizers that are expected, and still, they impress with ease.
You’ll be more-than pleased with some of Chef Ramon Perez’s new additions to the Beneci’s menu, especially his iteration of the fall-favorite beet insalata. Tender rainbow beets over a bed of creamy stracciatella cheese—a soft and mild cheese similar to the milky strands found inside a ball of burrata. On top, a beautifully green basil-infused honey and a few fronds of arugula for a peppery bite.
In addition to being delicious, the beet salad is visually arresting with a color palette that spans from red to yellow—green to white. It’s a vibrant addition to the table, and one that brings a ravishing display of eye candy to the mix.
It might be a good time for wine (it is), and Beneci’s offers a lengthy list with options that span the spectrum. Beverage Director Meritan Kraja started me with a Chardonnay from Puglia—fermented in stainless steel and incredibly fresh with a punch of acidity. This will help guide you through the prior first bites as your palette preps for what’s to come. And a fun exercise in the differences of wine-making styles is to stick to the same grape, done differently. His second offering none other than Stag’s Leap Chardonnay—a buttery and oaky white from Napa Valley.
The comparison between the two is night and day, with each variety serving its time and purpose (and as lead up to a full-bodied red). It shows not only the versatility of certain wine grapes, but also the variety of wine that Beneci’s has to offer. Plus, wine and Italian food… What’s better than that?
Then, demanding the attention it deserves, the crab cake arrives. Pan-seared, lump crab meat and a chorus of flavors that sing its praise—I’m talking about the shaved fennel and orange salad and the Calbrian aioli, of course. Together with the crab cake, these three components make for a masterful bite, defined by the natural sweetness of the crab meat, the crunch of the salad and a hint of spice. Crab cakes are one of the great foods of the world, but there’s a lot of room for error. By keeping the cake itself simple, and the accompanying flavors defined, Beneci’s impresses yet again.
Let’s continue the seafood theme for what I consider to be the best bite of my recent visit: the garlic shrimp with polenta. Pungent garlic flavor permeates the entirety of this dish with a rich, pan sauce that coats each piece of shrimp. On the bottom is a seared polenta cake to soak up all of the juices. As you cut into the cake, you reveal a creamy and molten center that eats like traditional polenta. Along with the shrimp, it’s a true Hudson County take on the classic shrimp and grits that’s found throughout the American South. A stellar dish.
Hand-made linguine with creamy pesto and fresh chunks of salmon present great pasta options. Meat enthusiasts might opt for the steak frites—which Beneci’s playfully does “pizzaiola style” with blistered tomatoes, peppers and onions topping a grilled skirt steak. Addictive shoestring fries come on the side. These are the types of entrees that the daily clientele return again and again for.
You already know the deal: I never skip dessert, and you shouldn’t either. If it wasn’t abundantly clear that Beneci’s was a New Jersey Italian restaurant, then the desserts will make it so. The dessert options take inspiration from that old-school, Italian-American charm. You know, the kinds of desserts that used to come out on a display cart—albeit, elevated. A creamy chocolate and hazelnut roche and a milk chocolate and biscotti semifreddo make for beautifully rich options to end your meal, perhaps paired with a frothy cappuccino.
But it’s the Cestino Al Limone that is a true marvel. A ridiculously smooth lemon sorbet that is perplexingly creamy and fresh. It’s the perfect way to cleanse your palate after a large meal. Seriously, I couldn’t put the spoon down.
Located right on the Hudson River, Beneci’s offers a memorable Italian-American dining experience complete with gorgeous views and unparalleled hospitality. Whether you go for lunch, dinner, breakfast or Happy Hour, you are promised consistent food, done with poise. Date night, family dinner, business—you name it, Beneci’s has you covered.
